This article, about a prodigy at eating, offended a few people who wrote in to the Datebook section to complain:
Our rates of childhood obesity have tripled since 1980. Regular reminders from the California Department of Education inform us that about 75 percent of our kids flunk national fitness tests.
And yet, I don’t know any sixth-graders who enter eating contests–in fact, it’s pretty uncommon to gorge oneself in the way Chestnut does. Poor eating habits are different from “gluttony” in Chestnut terms. And Chestnut himself isn’t all that hefty.
The piece about eating contests filled me with disgust. You devoted many inches to something I and many others cannot comprehend. In today’s world, with millions starving and other millions suffering from obesity, holding competitions to eat lots of food drips with irony. And, as Julia Child would have said, it’s disrespectful to the food.
As opposed to the weekly segment in which food writers compare the eight different kinds of white truffle oil available in the Bay Area? Or the “Best Wedding Cake Ever” special on the Food Network last week? You know, the one that aired right after Rachel Ray toured a ceviche bar? Or maybe the mille fiumi cupcakes at Citizen Cake, or the fifteen-dollar polenta* appetizers at Hawthorne Alley? If having a consumptive attitude towards food is a bad thing, and if indulgence in the face of starvation is selfish, that holds true for gluttony and fetishization. And if hyperconsumption in the face of need is grotesque, that holds true for the guy who broke the world record for number of consecutive skydiving runs.
I have no interest in eating contests, and am not all that excited about Chestnut’s special skill. But why does he stand out? Bizarre, sure. But the symbol of all that’s wrong with our eating habits?
*You know, corn mush?