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Kitchen Bullies

This article made me feel like this:

YOLANDA EDWARDS was at a friend’s house in Brooklyn for dinner when the hostess asked her to pull out a pot for boiling pasta. Ms. Edwards froze. As her friend looked at her in disbelief, she said she was not up to the job.

“I used to think I was a good cook,” said Ms. Edwards, an editor at the parenting magazine Cookie. “But my husband’s a kitchen bully. He’s so critical, I second-guess myself now.”

Oh, those crazy-in-love kids!

Actually, the arrangement sounds abusive to me. Here’s a perfectly competent woman who begins to second-guess herself under whithering scorn from her husband. But it’s cute and funny because it’s in the kitchen, a woman’s natural domain!

We’ll even give it a darling Style-section-worthy hook: Alpha cooks! Beta cooks! Let’s call the whole thing off!

“I have no problem admitting that I’m an alpha,” said her husband, Matthew Hranek, a photographer. “Yolanda wouldn’t know a corked bottle of wine if you put it in front of her. When we met, she had four days’ worth of dishes in her sink, most of which had what looked like black bean on them. Ever since then, I’ve cooked for her.”

He had to save her from her own low standards, you see. So now she’s gone from eating black beans to a steady diet of scorn and humiliation to go with the “restaurant-quality wild mushroom risotto on a Tuesday night.” And striking back with passive-aggression:

So, over time, an embattled beta will find ways to level the playing field, ways that do not involve wresting the meat thermometer from the alpha’s hand. This is the case with Ms. Edwards, who may have lost the ability to choose a pasta pot when put on the spot, but who has carved out a particular position of power of her own.

For one, she makes oatmeal and eggs that her 3-year-old daughter prefers to anything her husband cooks.

She also discovered the beta’s best weapon, and the secret to living with an alpha cook: criticism. An alpha is nothing without a beta.

“I couldn’t strive to be good without her,” said Mr. Hranek, her husband. “If she’s not happy with the food, I’m devastated.”

Ah, love.

Though there are some female professional chefs featured in the article as examples of alpha cooks, most examples of this kind of bullying are of men who can’t let go of the idea that the carrots might not be julienned just so — but can’t seem to just do it themselves rather than enlist a partner to take direction and, inevitably, criticism. And, strangely, some of the women express guilt at “letting” their partners do all the cooking after they’ve decided it’s not worth sharing kitchen space. Those culturally-enforced gender roles do die hard.

Kinda makes me glad I live alone.


93 thoughts on Kitchen Bullies

  1. That’s odd … made me think of my mom and I in the kitchen. For years, she’s been the one always cooking, but in the past months I’ve been doing more and more of it. My cooking is, hate to say, much better than my mom’s because she likes to cut corners (“It doesn’t need that much salt/butter/whatever!”) and rush things, while I prefer to follow the recipes.

    Anyway, whenever we’re in the kitchen, she likes to dominate and yell at me and criticize anything I do. I could be pouring water in a pot and she would grab the measuring cup out of my hand and do it the “right way.” I stir everything “wrong” and the chicken dish I was teaching her how to make … any attempts at telling her how to do things were met with cold stares and then infomercial-level ineptness (telling her to trim the fat from the chicken, she started hacking HUGE chunks off and then claiming it’s what I told her to do).

    She does the same things to my dad. And it’s not just cooking. She stares at me while I do ANYTHING, and once it was while I was pouring detergent in the laundry. I measure in the plastic cup. She yelled at me because doing it “my” way got detergent on the agitator, and that’s “bad.” Or when I had to hide my furniture form from her when getting stuff for my apartment, because I wanted only two dining room chairs and she wanted me to get four. It was a bold move on my part to seal the envelope before she could see it, but she “knew” it meant I had ordered only 2 and so she screamed at me for an hour about how terrible I was.

    Ummmm yeah. Anyway, I wouldn’t be surprised if her husband did the same shit to her about things other than cooking.

  2. She also discovered the beta’s best weapon, and the secret to living with an alpha cook: criticism. An alpha is nothing without a beta.

    “I couldn’t strive to be good without her,” said Mr. Hranek, her husband. “If she’s not happy with the food, I’m devastated.”

    Interesting how this article tries to even out the power imbalance, and recuperate the relationship to a happy heterosexual narrative, by giving her so much rhetorical power over male partner. It also tries to redeem him with the stereotype that a woman’s love is so important to him. Amazing what gets unexamined in news stories.

  3. So if she cooks, she’s being forced to conform to traditional gender roles, and indentured to perform free domestic labor, and if he cooks he’s an abusive bully who contemptuously exiled her from the kitchen and curtailed her autonomy by cooking risotto for her and not letting dirty dishes pile in the sink?

  4. If he cooks that’s lovely, but not if he constantly reminds her what an incompetent cook she is, to the point she doesn’t have the confidence to pick out a pot.

  5. Consider this quote from the article:

    “True, life with an alpha cook can mean sitting back and watching while someone else prepares restaurant-quality wild mushroom risotto on a quiet Tuesday night. But it can also mean putting up with small culinary humiliations and an unending patter of condescending remarks.”

    An “unending patter of condescending remarks” is abusive; not as much so as violence, of course, but still wrong.

  6. An “unending patter of condescending remarks” is abusive; not as much so as violence, of course, but still wrong.

    Don’t be so sure. Having worked with victims and survivors of domestic violence for nearly a decade, the most common response I get from women who were the recipients of on-going verbal abuse is, “I wish he would have just hit me.” Physical wounds heal, emotional wounds stay forever, often deepening over time. There’s also the common misnomer that “it’s not as bad as physical abuse,” making it less likely that she will have support from friends/family/society if she wants to leave, she has no legal recourse whatsoever (other than divorce — if she’s lucky enough to be able to file for no-fault divorce).

  7. Three unrelated points”

    1) I’m so glad someone other than me had a blood pressure spike reading this.

    2) If the worst thing this guy can think of is 4 days worth of dishes, someone needs to get out more.

    3) I couldn’t strive to be good without her,” said Mr. Hranek, her husband. “If she’s not happy with the food, I’m devastated.”
    Hearing this would make me the most passive aggressive person possible. “Well, it’s all right if you like salty, overdone risotto, which is so passe anyway!” *Hrumph!*

  8. “…if he cooks he’s an abusive bully who contemptuously exiled her from the kitchen and curtailed her autonomy by cooking risotto for her and not letting dirty dishes pile in the sink?”

    Not quite. It’s more like “If he’s an abusive bully, doing the cooking/cleaning/whatever doesn’t get him a free pass on that.” If the woman doesn’t trust herself to pick out a goddamn pot after prolonged exposure to him, there is a problem. Relationships are supposed to encourage mutual growth and leave people the better for having had them, not turn them into nervous wrecks without the confidence to perform simple tasks.

  9. I agree with bean. Actively removing confidence is one of the worst thing you can do to anyone – it spills over on a lot of other things, and can ensure that you put up with a lot of shit in many other situations.

    Of course, I might be biased, as I have known highly competent women and men who lacked all confidence due to abuse bastards (this can be parents as well as partners). Thankfully some of them have recovered the self-confidence, but it took hard work (their own mostly, but also by others).

  10. That’s fairly nasty controlling behaviour. I echo others – what else is he doing to control her, what other things is he making her feel awful about?

    The lack of confidence to pick out a pot is kinda… well, that’s extreme. Which means there’s a lot going on.

  11. Three unrelated points”

    1) I’m so glad someone other than me had a blood pressure spike reading this.

    2) If the worst thing this guy can think of is 4 days worth of dishes, someone needs to get out more.

    3) I couldn’t strive to be good without her,” said Mr. Hranek, her husband. “If she’s not happy with the food, I’m devastated.”
    Hearing this would make me the most passive aggressive person possible. “Well, it’s all right if you like salty, overdone risotto, which is so passe anyway!” *Hrumph!*

  12. Dan, that’s not the point at all. Look, let me put this in another context. I’m an alpha geek. My bf is horrible with all things technical. Believe me, when I watch him do things on the computer that could be done far more efficiently, I sit there and internally squirm. Because it would be rude and disrespectful of me to grab the computer out of his hands and show him a better way to do it, even though that’s what I want to do. But I don’t. Sometimes, I’ll politely offer a bit of advice on how to do something differently. But I don’t do it most of the time, I don’t snap at him like he’s a moron, I don’t grab things out of his hand and do them myself, and I don’t let him only do minor computer-related things. That’s the problem with what Hranek is doing. The cooking isn’t the problem.

  13. this struck home for me as it reminds me of my mother and my recently deceased stepdad. ll through my life my mom has always worked full-time and she’s viewed food simply as fuel with little regard to taste, presentation, etc. my stepfather was older than my mother by about a decade was a traditionalist. his wife cooks, he works, if there isn’t fluffy white bread on the table, he throws a fit. well, after his wife left him and he spent about a decade alone, he learned how to cook and to cook rather well. then he discovered that he really enjoyed it. so when he met my mother and they eventually married, he pretty much moved into the kitchen. he would come home at abut 4 and start an involved dinner. my mom would arrive around 6, we would all eat and then she and i would clean the kitchen.
    anyways, this was a win-win situation for my mother and him as there was nothing abusive about this arrangement. i used to think it rather interesting, though, that a man who lived in a time that was ruled by such strict gender roles found the ability to become flexible and learned how to make a bitching-ass meatloaf.
    **(i miss you, charlie)**

  14. If there were a clinical diagnosis for her problem, it might be called beta cook disorder.

    her problem

    If you can find a man who’s O.K. with a woman being in charge in the kitchen, tell any woman to marry him immediately.

    Where to begin. I’ll just rephrase it: If you can find a man who will pull his weight in the kitchen without becoming an insufferable, controlling asshat, tell any straight woman or gay man to marry him immediately.

    That picture of the couple as chef and sous-chef made me want to puke.

  15. I actually couldn’t bring myself to finish reading the article after the

    Yolanda wouldn’t know a corked bottle of wine if you put it in front of her. When we met, she had four days’ worth of dishes in her sink, most of which had what looked like black bean on them. Ever since then, I’ve cooked for her.

    bit. It was really nauseating. I mean, just eeeew. Are you really that mean to your fiancee? I vote with everyone else who labeled it emotional abuse.

    I totally empathize with the alpha/beta cook thing (I’m an alpha), but hovering and berating is hardly a solution. My fiance wants to cook dinner. Fine. I pour a glass of wine, and watch TV while he gets everything started (to avoid the “eek! how much olive oil did you put in the pan?” moments), and then come back and hang out. Much better that way.

    (Okay, I do admit to adding salt to the pasta water–I can’t figure out WHY he refuses to do so, because I think it tastes nasty without it. And I stir the pasta because he doesn’t seem to mind pasta that’s all stuck together, but I do.)

  16. I’m the chef in my family, BF is the sous-chef. This is primarily a function of our family histories: I (an XX) grew up in the kitchen (as did my brother); he grew up sitting with the other XYs in front of the TV while the XXs were in the kitchen.

    He’s learning, but has a real, and sometimes bratty resistance to any coaching from me about how-tos (don’t smash the pancakes with the spatula, hold the knife like this and let it do the work, etc.). Reading these comments makes me think that I ought to check myself…am I being a Hranek? I don’t think so, but it’s a good reminder to keep in mind the point: to build his skills and confidence in the kitchen, and enjoy the fruits of our labors together.

  17. You know, I was thinking just yesterday, after getting embroiled in a debate about this article in a friend’s journal, that I kind of wished you would comment on this article and that I should figure out how to forward suggestions. It’s totally handy that you saw it on your own! 🙂

    One of the things that really bothered me about this article was that it didn’t provide any sensible, obvious alternative strategies for sharing cooking duties. The implication was that either one partner (presumably the woman) would do all the cooking, or there would be this sort of alpha/beta relationship, which I agree sounds abusive. The suggestion that couples could be happy by just learning to be okay with the power imbalance sounded a lot to me like, “There’d be a lot less strife if women would just learn their place.”

    I’m a man married to a woman and we share the cooking. To us, there was a pretty obvious approach to this. We alternate days. One of us cooks, and we eat whatever was cooked until it’s done (which may be a few days’ dinners). Then the other person cooks, and we eat whatever was cooked until it’s done (see above). Whichever person wasn’t the cook for that meal handles the cleaning. Viola! I dunno, is that such an obscure and hard-to-arrive-at arrangement? Why did the article seem to think that combatting for primacy in the kitchen was the only option for sharing?

    I’m also a bit irked by the general idea that there has to be strife and domination even when duties are shared. I mean, if one of us unpacks the groceries and there’s a whole lot involved, the other person isn’t doing anything, we’ll often pipe up and say, “Hey, do you need any help with that? Chopping or something?” It’s a voluntary offering, not a delegation through the command structure. If we don’t feel like it, we don’t offer and nobody gets bent out of shape about it. Also, whoever is chopping is generally left to their chopping. If there’s some special instruction like, “This needs to be chopped really finely,” we tell them and trust them to do it. It’s not a big deal. It might help that neither of us are as picky as these people seem to be, but I think it also helps that we respect each other enough to assume that if a skill is offered, it’s likely up to the task, or it wouldn’t have been offered.

    I don’t feel at all avante-garde or revolutionary for our kitchen arrangements (I mean, didn’t most people’s parents teach them to take turns? Haven’t these people ever heard of a chore wheel?), but this article seems so pat in its assertions that this is the way things are that it really makes me wonder.

  18. Ellie, only you know what your situation is, and you may still be financially or otherwise dependent. But I’ve been where you are, with my father, and I can tell you this: once you are on your own two feet, they can’t make you take this shit. It is a learned pattern, and it can be unlearned. If you’re not under her roof or taking her money, you don’t have to return her calls unless she keeps a civil tongue in her head. That’s your own right of self-preservation.

  19. I’ve never understood how people can say things that amount to “If you find someone who’s not abusive, insane, or an obvious mental trainwreck, latch on and never let go.” and be so blithe about it. It’s such a phenomenally nihilistic statement.

  20. He’s an insufferable asshat. When I met my partner, she lived in a studio with a small sink and kitchen. She liked to cook, but hated dishes. After living together a couple of years, she told me that she felt inadequate in cooking and wanted to help out more. She said that she wanted to take some cooking classes and I ran to get my checkbook to pay for them (she was out of work at the time). We both learned from the classes as she brought home lessons, tips, and recipes. We’ve both become better cooks for it and enjoy sharing the kitchen together or separately.

    One caveat: after taking several classes, she totally took over cooking for several weeks. I finally had to sit her down and tell her that I love what she’s doing, but I need to find some kitchen time for myself as well. It’s been great since. Oh, and I’m a man who does the dishes, too, and I still do most of the dishes in the house. Why? Because she still hates it. It balances since there are things I hate to do too.

  21. In all my life, the biggest arguments I’ve had with the people I’ve lived with (and these were housemates, so it must be even more fiery if it’s your partner) were over the washing-up. When it was done, whether things were clean enough afterwards, whether it was fair to leave your pots and pans if someone else was going to need them… Oh, and who took the bins out on bin day. That wasa another big one. The flashpoints were all about little niggly things that got on your nerves day after day.

    My boyfriend is a great cook, much better than me. We’re about to move in together, and because he’s so good at cooking I’ve got nervous about my ability to produce something worth eating, so we’re going to have to figure out a solution that means he doesn’t do all the cooking while I get more and more rusty. It’s nothing to do with him being a Hranek in the kitchen (he is never critical while I’m cooking) – it’s to do with getting out of practice and being used to cooking simple meals for one. My washing-up is much better than his so I could take that over instead… but it’s not really the fun end of the deal, is it?

    Having said that, I can’t imagine us ever getting into a situation where cooking dinner becomes a ridiculous power-play like the one described above. It sounds like there are general problems with where power and respect in the relationship, and this is a symptom of the problem.

  22. This story sends me so many different places. First, and most important, the fact that the woman in the article is so squashed by this that she can’t pick out a pasta pot at a friend’s house when she used to consider herself a good cook makes it clear that her particular situation is not about the cooking at all.

    Either he’s abusive (and the “corked wine” thing answers that one for me) or she has some serious self-esteem or psychological issues independent of what he caused, or both.

    So using their relationship to diagnose a “beta cook” syndrome is probably deeply wrong. She (they) need some counseling, and fast. So I don’t want to use their situation to talk about this, because it blurs all the distinctions.

    But I also wonder how much gender roles fit into this. I think it is telling that the story is about a male “alpha” and a female “beta.” I know plenty of couples where the man is completely helpless and hopeless in the kitchen, and the solution is that he is banned completely, and nobody (including the couple) thinks twice about it.

    But that doesn’t seem to be a workable answer if the woman is the one who can’t cook. She has to stay in the kitchen, even if that means being a “beta” and feeling constantly belittled.

    If the woman does all the cooking, (even if the man does all the dishes) it is “situation normal.” If a man does all the cooking, then he is a “chef” and it is something unique and special. If the man can’t cook, so what, but if she can’t, there is something wrong with her.

    Why do I suspect that if the story had been about a woman who does all the cooking and a man who helped, but was constantly being corrected and couldn’t pick out a pasta pot, it wouldn’t get the same reactions?

    But it does mean I have to have a serious talk with my partner, because I need to check in and make sure that I’m not making him feel inadequate when he helps me in the kitchen.

  23. “Why do I suspect that if the story had been about a woman who does all the cooking and a man who helped, but was constantly being corrected and couldn’t pick out a pasta pot, it wouldn’t get the same reactions?”

    People would denounce her (rightly) as an evil bitch without thinking twice, unlike in this article where it’s HER problem, and his obvious abusive behavior is just shaded as sort of amusing.

  24. Yeah, this is an issue with my husband. He doesn’t criticize the finished product of my cooking, and he would never say anything like the guy in this article did, but he’ll say things like, “Why are you grating the cheese that way? It’s faster to grate it this way” or “Don’t overbeat the eggs!” or whatever other bullshit he’s decided that I’m not doing correctly. I view it (for him at least) as a toxic combination of male privilege, extreme intelligence, perfectionism, and growing up in a household where being a critical asshole is just “helping” someone or “giving advice.” And, of course, being a militant foodie. He’s gotten a lot better as he’s gotten older, and I’m sure that me throwing down my spoon and telling him that he can fend for himself and I’ll just get some fucking takeout has helped. I’ve also told him that it undermines me and hurts my feelings. That’s been a big help, too. Also, he cooks pretty much all the time (I work more hours than he does and I go to school, so it’s a fair tradeoff), which is fine with me.

    My point is that this article is useless, and the interaction between these two adults isn’t cute or funny, it’s a complete demonstration of what happens in a patriarchy, where men are brought up feeling entitled to criticize anything and everything about women. Men are given the message that their ideas, thoughts, and feelings are completely valid and important, whereas women are told that their ideas, thoughts, and feelings are stupid and unimportant. (And then we are blamed for being too sensitive and taking insults and criticisms too personally). This is why I’m glad for feminism–I can see what is going on and why it’s occurring. Now I can say, “Look, you’re being a self-entitled, privileged asshole and you need to stop!” as opposed to saying to a child, “You don’t want Daddy’s yucky porcini risotto, do you? You want Mommy’s yummy eggs, right?” Ugh.

  25. bluefish, something similar happened with my dad. He got interested in nutrition in his middle age, and that led him to get interested in cooking. He got interested in ethnic cooking after a trip to Mexico. He retired seven years ago and has completely taken over the cooking and cleaning up (because he wants to make sure everything is in its “right” place). He hates grocery shopping, so Mom handles that.

  26. Thanks for this post. I couldn’t even read the whole article, it made me so upset. My husband has been the same way, only not about food. It’s true about the emotional abuse – you get told you’re wrong day in, day out, and it wears on you. Constant, dripping, little torture that erodes your self-esteem and self-confidence bit by bit. He never even realized he was doing it, I don’t think, but there it was.
    (accidentally hit enter, hope I don’t doublepost now)

    That couple is an obvious case of emotional abuse, and I can’t believe that the author of the story, or the editor, never noticed and ran it as a fluff piece.

  27. “Why do I suspect that if the story had been about a woman who does all the cooking and a man who helped, but was constantly being corrected and couldn’t pick out a pasta pot, it wouldn’t get the same reactions?”

    There’s a difference between correcting someone and being a prick to someone, and you can do the former without doing the latter.

    If a woman was on the issuing end of the behavior from the article, the author would probably have found a way to spin it as two pages of “Oh, men–they’re so adorable when they think they can cook! Good thing his wife is there to keep him fed, or he’d be stuck eating improperly julienned carrots!”

    I don’t think that slant would have played any better than the slant she went with did, though, because the behavior would still be blatantly inappropriate, the quotes would still revolve around denigrating the ‘beta’ and their abilities, and the fact that someone’s gone from being self-described as competent to doubting their choice of pot would still be standing in the middle of it all, jumping up and down with a big red flag and shouting “Look at me, I’m a warning sign!” .

  28. Yeah, this is an issue with my husband. He doesn’t criticize the finished product of my cooking, and he would never say anything like the guy in this article did, but he’ll say things like, “Why are you grating the cheese that way? It’s faster to grate it this way” or “Don’t overbeat the eggs!” or whatever other bullshit he’s decided that I’m not doing correctly.

    Katie, this is ment in the most postive way possible, but you have a brave husband… (winkie thingie for those of you who believes in such things)
    No, seriously, it’s good that he is getting better.

    My point is that this article is useless, and the interaction between these two adults isn’t cute or funny, it’s a complete demonstration of what happens in a patriarchy, where men are brought up feeling entitled to criticize anything and everything about women.

    I agree with you, and unfortunately this kind of articles helps continue that pattern.

  29. My husband was raised with a grandfather who was/is highly critical of anyone cooking around him. The first time my husband (then boyfriend) criticized me in the kitchen, I laughed it off. The second time he did it, I threw a pot at him and asked him if he knew the fucking recipe, and would he like to dine alone ?

    Five years later, we collaborate beautifully in the kitchen, and cooking is one of our primary shared joys. Partly because we have found a true understanding of cooperation and mutual respect. Without it, like the poor woman in this article, a relationship is just a power struggle. It’s shameful, and like the posters above me have said, just another reinforcement of the patriarchy.

  30. I identify with this. It’s been getting better over 13 years but at least 2x a year I’m ready to walk out. It’s so much work to be the assistant plus get one’s own shit done, sans assistance. And taken individually, the comments aren’t so bad – it’s just that there are so many of them (30 a day or so). I really admire the one commenter’s marriage where they each help the other when they feel moved to do so. That would be a beautiful thing. As I say, every year it gets a bit better, because I am more able to say, right in the moment, ‘no, I’m not going to do that, ‘ or ‘I don’t have time for that right now,’ or ‘this is the way it works best for me’. I can’t even read that article, it would get me too upset.

  31. Why do I suspect that if the story had been about a woman who does all the cooking and a man who helped, but was constantly being corrected and couldn’t pick out a pasta pot, it wouldn’t get the same reactions?

    That wouldn’t be an article, it would be an episode of every single family sitcom ever made, and we would point out how much it supports an old fashioned patriarchal meme that is damaging to both men and women.

  32. So if she cooks, she’s being forced to conform to traditional gender roles, and indentured to perform free domestic labor, and if he cooks he’s an abusive bully who contemptuously exiled her from the kitchen and curtailed her autonomy by cooking risotto for her and not letting dirty dishes pile in the sink?

    Thank you for the latest episode of Miss the Point Theatre.

    My husband can’t cook for shit and tends to like food that I find very bland. It wouldn’t even occur to me to berate him for it, but then I’m not an abusive bully.

  33. So if she cooks, she’s being forced to conform to traditional gender roles, and indentured to perform free domestic labor, and if he cooks he’s an abusive bully who contemptuously exiled her from the kitchen and curtailed her autonomy by cooking risotto for her and not letting dirty dishes pile in the sink?

    If she cooks because she likes cooking, that’s great.
    If he cooks because he likes cooking, that’s great.

    If she cooks because he refuses to help out, berates her for not cooking, uses verbal or physical abuse to force her to cook, or otherwise bullies her into it, then she’s being forced to conform to tradtional gender roles, and indentured to perform free domestic labor.
    If he refuses to accept her help without berating her for her cooking ability, uses verbal or physical abuse in response to her cooking, or otherwise bullier her out of cooking even though she wants to, then he’s an abusive bully who contemptuously exiled her from the kitchen and curtailed her autonomy.

    I love cooking. Love it.
    If my partner and I are cooking, and I think that there’s a better way of doing something, I might offer the suggestion, depending on the situation. You can offer advice or assistance without bullying someone and without making the other person feel like they shouldn’t be there. If your “advice” is making the other person feel so useless that she can’t even pick out a pot to boil pasta, then there’s a pretty big problem.

  34. I have to agree with Bean. And I have to also point out that abuse is a continuum–when an abuser can’t control you with their usual BS, they escalate. Not all emotional abusers hit, but I’m willing to bet that almost all physical abusers started off emotionally and verbally abusing their partners. Make them feel like crap, isolate them, and escalate when they question your divinity.

  35. And I have to say–there’s a huge difference between a guy who likes to cook and does a lot of the cooking, and someone who berates and belittles his wife for not being as good as he is in the kitchen.

    The difference? A man who likes to cook, who’s good at it, and who does most of it and who treats his wife respectfully (i.e., doesn’t put down her cooking or kitchen procedure) is more likely to hear his wife say: “Oh, Matt does most of the cooking, he’s so good at it! The man works magic with a skillet.”

    I’ve a feeling that Matt’s gonna end up on one of those really bitter, divorced male sites one of these days.

  36. My husband used to do the “…why are you grating the cheese that way? It’s faster to grate it this way…” thing. He does it while driving “…c’mon pass him you moron..” He hardly ever cooks, but when he does I “lead” by example: I’ll read or surf in the kitchen nook, help or offer advice when asked, compliment or provide constructive criticism. I also throw down: do you even know what I’m doing? have you ever made this? On any given day I have to use logic, question motive and cite examples as to why his actions/words are either mean or controlling. Before you say a big “WTF” here’s some background:

    It’s taking a very long time to kill the control monster, and it was born of a controlling bastard of a dad and a passive agressive mom (his). His dad is gone, so his siblings and mother have stepped in with a vengeance – and it’s not helped by his sister living next door.

    I will not go to any family functions. I used to, but after a couple of years of verbal abuse from them, I won’t. I always have to work or I’m not feeling well. I’ve maintained that while I will never ask my husband to choose or keep him from being with them, I’m far beyond playing nice anymore. I wouldn’t stand for this kind of behaviour from friends or co-workers, so I shouldn’t take the abuse from in-laws. By attending family functions I would give tacit approval to the manipulation, bullying, lying, angry words, insinuation, and all general hell thats been wrought on us because I will. not. be. controlled (that’s why they never liked me to begin with). But more than that – they think that my husband is now being controlled by me, thus they can’t manipulate him anymore. Pretty fucked up eh?

    When his brother was visiting sister next door, and I politely declined the invitation to go to dinner citing working late (my husband went) as soon as I got home everyone came over. I’d been in the door 5 minutes. The excuse was to “..see how the renovations were going…and to see the dogs..” but what was clear is that they would not take “No” for an answer from me. When my husband called his brother to tell him that he should wait for an invitation or to call before coming over I heard his brother screaming into the phone, “…Your Wife Put You Up To This!!!”

    What does this have to do with cooking? Cooking isn’t easy. Neither is working through patterns of abuse. Through communication – “..sure, chop the onions that way…” or “…I don’t see why you’re condeming my methods when you’ve never made this recipe..” to “…hmm..that’s really wonderful sweetheart..I was wrong about the salt…” we’re learning a lot about ourselves..

  37. I’m only just learning to cook more than instant what-have-you. My husband is a great cook. He loves to try new things (very Sagittarius) and isn’t afraid to experiment. We’re trying to lose weight, so I got some decent healthy recipe books that I’m trying out. I try to do at least one recipe a week, but I follow it almost to the letter. I think one factor in my inexperience is the fact that I was never really allowed to help with the cooking when I was growing up, whereas my husband was. I’m going to make damned sure that my future kids grow up knowing how to cook and how to not be an ass in the kitchen.

  38. My husband and I both like to cook, but we take turns being chef/sous-chef depending on who thought up the recipe. This article is not about a normal dynamic between two people, or at the very least not a healthy one. It says a lot that the writer/editor etc could miss the staggeringly large warning signs.

  39. Kitchen bullies can cross gender lines. The Beau’s mother is like that. She broke her shoulder last September and had to let The Beau and I cook Thanksgiving dinner. She liked the food, but could not stop carping that the kitchen wasn’t as neat as a pin as soon as the meal was over. He cooks for his parents and all she can do is complain while his dad silently inhales it all, knowing if he compliments The Beau, the mother will go into a rage thinking it’s a criticism of her cooking.

  40. I can sympathize with loving good food and the satisfaction of pulling off an elaborate dish, my partner and I both love doing that, but this kind of control-freakery seems tailor-made to take all the joy out of dinner.

  41. And I have to say–there’s a huge difference between a guy who likes to cook and does a lot of the cooking, and someone who berates and belittles his wife for not being as good as he is in the kitchen.

    And when I read that I thought… what the hell must their sex life be like. He likes the sex and intiates a lot of the sex but then berates and belittles his wife for not being as great in bed as he is…. or something… That was went through my head when I read that. I’m not entirely sure why.

  42. Wow! I read this article and then I forwarded it my husband and I said “sounds just like us doesn’t it?” In our scenario I’m the alpha. My husband used to eat cold Spaghetti O’s out of a can and drink nothing but Mountain Dew when I met him and I learned how to cook out of self defence because my mother’s idea of garlic bread was toasted Home Pride wheat bread with butter and garlic powder.

    Then I went on to sous-chef in a 4 star and to run a small bakery in Northfield, MN. And I treat my home kitchen as I would a working kitchen. I expect to show him once, maybe twice if its a complex task, and then I do tell him when he’s wrong. And I don’t think there is anything wrong with it. Everything that people do together has a power dynamic of some sort. I actually thought that the article was funny and my husband did too. He recognized some of our interactions and some of the “beta” reactions. Of course, when he cooks at someone else’s place now he is totally full of confidence and very take charge because he feels competent and well taught.

    Personally, I didn’t find anything offensive about the article and think you may be reading a little too deeply.

  43. “Of course, when he cooks at someone else’s place now he is totally full of confidence and very take charge because he feels competent and well taught.”

    Notice a bit of difference between that and the article?
    Think there might be a connection to what everyone is talking about?

  44. “Of course, when he cooks at someone else’s place now he is totally full of confidence and very take charge because he feels competent and well taught.”

    Do you belittle your husband or tell him that he’s stupid? Do your statements about him go from “He doesn’t/can’t even. . .”? Do your statements to him start with “Can’t you even…”?

    The woman in the article considered herself to be a good cook before she met her husband. Now, thanks to his berating, she doesn’t even have the confidence to choose a pot to boil water for pasta. Contrast this with your husband, who never knew how to cook, and whose apparently newly confident in the kitchen. I doubt he would be if you kept telling him how awful and stupid he was.

    There’s a difference between belittling someone and being constructive.

  45. I don’t know. I mean. He wasn’t always that way. We’ve been cooking together as chef and sous for 12 years. And I do encourage him to highlight his best dishes (like his unbelievable stromboli) when we need to bring something to a party. But these couples in the article have only been together for short periods of time. He had to learn to peel a potato correctly and during that period of time he probably would have stared at someone blankly if they asked him for a pasta pot too. Mostly because he would probably have wanted to hand them a one quart sauce pot and was just learning that that answer was wrong.

    Sometimes a kitchen argument is just that a kitchen argument. They don’t even discuss the other dynamics in the house. Maybe he’s not allowed to touch the TIVO because he’ll screw it up. In my house I’m not to do laundry. Apparently, I use too much soap, or too little, I don’t even remember anymore. I fold. I can’t stand the crease down the middle of things that happens when he folds. And when we discussed things we weren’t all sweetness and light. He knew how to do the laundry, I was making a mess of things and it wasn’t right. That’s fine.

    I think the article was just about the changing dynamic. Home cooking was traditionally the female field while cheffing the males and now there is an overlap that causes a new and interesting dynamic in relationships. Its a relatively new area where the couple has to work out their own dynamic.

    Not everything can be an equal sharing. I simply do not care enough about domestic chores to do a good job. He does. He can’t be bothered learning how to organize the computer file systems to set up a good working environment on the computer. I do. Everything in a partnership is playing off the strengths and weaknesses of each member. I truly still can’t say I see the relationship as abusive. Unless we assume that every other bit of their relationship works exactly like the kitchen how can we even think anything beyond it?

  46. Sheelzebub

    Actually, I must say I am a bitch in the kitchen. It’s my domain. I rule there. Totally a learned attitude from working in a professional kitchen and cooking school. If I have to tell him that cutting a carrot on the bias for a stir fry is important for the third time I might just tell him he’s disappointing me and not living up to good kitchen standards.

    I think that if you don’t carry the argument outside the kitchen then a little bit of the harshness is okay. He’s told me when I’ve gone too far. I mean he’s got to stand up for himself when I’ve overstepped and stopped being heklpful and just moved to being mean.

  47. Jesus, how do the het majority make these mixed marriages work?

    This woman is in exactly the practical position I’m in: I haven’t cooked a meal beyond eggs and toast for the kid in 14 years, and since when she met me I ate produce that I had sprayed off with the hose in the case at Safeway…out of the bag…for dinner…I’m better off. Not as slim, but my fingernails aren’t falling off. (Yes, I was raised by a single mom who knew dinner was done when the smoke alarm went off, but that’s not to do with the issue here.)

    If my wife were picking at me and belittling me about it, I’d be in divorce court. And if she were a man, I can’t predict that she WOULD be an ass–I know plenty of husbands who aren’t–I can only predict that any man who refrained from being an ass about a gender-reverse division of labor would be considered a real catch

    If you can find a man who will pull his weight in the kitchen without becoming an insufferable, controlling asshat, tell any straight woman or gay man to marry him immediately.

    instead of the mandatory human development minimum I should settle for. I know this because I encouraged my sister to marry the first BF who met those standards, and frequently tell my wife to quit complaining about the BIL, because she didn’t meet the frogs…this guy IS the prince.

    Which is really, really sad and this story is a nauseating comment on how typical it is.

  48. He had to learn to peel a potato correctly and during that period of time he probably would have stared at someone blankly if they asked him for a pasta pot too. Mostly because he would probably have wanted to hand them a one quart sauce pot and was just learning that that answer was wrong.

    Look, we’re not talking about a woman who’d never cooked in her life. She wasn’t a pro, but she “used to think (she) was a good cook.” It doesn’t take a pro to grab a pot big enough to boil some pasta. If someone asks for a pot to boil pasta, a normal person grabs a pot. If it’s the wrong one, you say “oh, no, I need that one” and show them. If someone has so little confidence in the kitchen that s/he can’t even grab a pot to boil pasta in, that’s kind of screwy. Especially if this is a person who used to enjoy or at least think she was good at cooking.

    I don’t have a problem with there being one person who knows more about cooking than the other- I have a problem with someone who is a bully and who tears down his/her partner. If I know more about something than my partner, I’m going to want to share. The difference is that I want to build my partner’s confidence in the kitchen up. If she’s interested in cooking, but doesn’t know much, I want to help her learn, and share what I know so that she can enjoy it more. That guy doesn’t sound like he’s interested in helping build his wife’s skill and confidence, he sounds like a jerk who’s more interested in showing how great he is, and is more into tearing her down.

  49. You know, maybe I should re read it…when I read it I did think the guy was kind of a pompous arrogant dick. The line about the wine and the black beans comments led me to that conclusion. But I didn’t think that he was abusive. And that’s what I am arguing. He seemed abrasive to me. Like a caricature. But I didn’t see him as a symbol of all that was wrong with the patriarchy. Their situation actually seemed quite typical and not just in the kitchen but in a lot of the navigation of assuming roles in a marriage or any other live in relationship.

    You never thought you were pretty good at something and then were shown how that was just not true and for a while it was hard for you to make any decision in that realm for a while until you regained your bearings? I actually thought I was really good at knitting. And then I hung out with this young girl who could make anything, resize in her head, choose yarn to guage by feel. She showed me a whole world of different fibers and explained how blocking could be different with different mixes of yarn types…I used to run to the yarn shop and just buy what I wanted and make what I thought at the time were beautiful pieces. And she wasn’t mean, she didn’t belittle me, although she did once laugh because I didn’t know what Merino was, but for a while I agonized every decision. I took me four days to pick out yarn for a pair of mittens.

    I just feel like this isn’t nearly as bad as the hand wringing offence that seems to be taking place here.

  50. re read…same impression. Guys an ass but he’s not all that’s wrong.

    I don’t know. I can see myself as all the men in this article and the two female chefs as well. And the problem doesn’t seem to me to be the patriarchy, it seems to be being an obnoxious foodie. I’m trying to stop that behavior and just realize that its ok to have hot dogs and french fries one night. Every meal doesn’t need to have an arugula salad and yucca fries. The man may be an arrogant jerk in the kitchen but so what? I worked for this woman Barbara who used to call me chickadee and tell me to stop fouling the nest if there was too much fat on a cut of meat I wat trimming…cooking is an arrogant thing. Liking dancing. Or painting, or writing.

    I dunno. I still think mountain out of mole hill. But it’s your forum for debate not mine. I still see the kitchen as a place where someone is the ruler, the top of the heirarchy, it doesn’t run smoothly otherwise. And those of you who think I just don’t “get it” have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?

  51. Wow. If someone enlisted my help in the kitchen and then belittled my efforts? I would definitely tell that person to fuck right the hell off.

    I do the vast majority of the cooking for my husband and I, although mostly we just fend for ourselves (with pre-prepared foods) and I only make very simple dishes that would undoubtedly apall a foodie. But frankly I don’t care b/c I’m NOT a foodie at all. I have the same lunch almost every day and I can have the same dinner 5, 6 nights in a row. I know that’s not very healthy but I have never been very interested in food and it’s hard to muster the enthusiasm and effort to give a crap. Also, we’re both “vegetarians” (i.e. we both dislike red meat and don’t eat it) so it is very easy for us to be lazy and just chow on fruit and veggies… And those awesomely require no cooking whatsoever!

    We frequently have BBQs and that is the only time where both my husband and I really enjoy “cooking” (mostly b/c there’s friends and beer involved).

    Anyway, sorry for rambling! My point is that I can’t help rolling my eyes into the back of my head at all this “Oh, MY! She can’t properly mince a carrot!” stuff. Like, who gives a crap? Not everyone is into cooking! And as someone who isn’t, I’m totally unimpressed with people who look down on others like me.

    The only real joy and/or satisfaction I get from cooking is feeding my husband (and/or guests). And he is never anything other than 100% complimentary and grateful.

    There is no “beta” or “alpha” in our kitchen. We don’t routinely belittle each others’ housework and huff and grab things from each other. Is that a normal marriage? Gross!

  52. Oh man. That article was tough to read. I acted like that guy Hranek when I was married and now I’m not. My ex was no angel and they’re are a lot of reasons we got divorced but me being a critical asshole certainly didn’t help at all. Why couldn’t I have been strong or smart enough to resist doing to the woman I loved what my father did to me? Why, oh why oh why?

  53. And the problem doesn’t seem to me to be the patriarchy… …I still think mountain out of mole hill. But it’s your forum for debate not mine. I still see the kitchen as a place where someone is the ruler, the top of the heirarchy, it doesn’t run smoothly otherwise. And those of you who think I just don’t “get it” have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?

    I don’t know if the problem is The Patriarchy, but there is definitely some pretty fucked up behavior being described, imo, and the article definitely presents more men than women exhibiting the aggressive/potentially abusive behavior. I’ve spent the better part of a decade working in a kitchen. I don’t expect my partner to treat me the way my asshole boss did, though. Work is work, and I tolerate things at my job because my boss is my boss, and, quite frankly, he doesn’t have to give a crap whether I like him. He can criticize me, and if he bullies me and I don’t like it, I quit and find a new job. Oddly enough, I hold my partner to a different standard of behavior. My partner is not my boss- she’s my partner. Even if there’s a disparity in our skill levels, I still expect to be treated with respect. I’ll take my boss telling me “Damnit, Roy, what’s wrong with you? I already showed you how to do this- you’re in the fucking way,” if I screw up. I won’t be happy, but I can deal with it. I think it’d be pretty inappropriate for my partner to say something like that, and I’d be, rightly, upset about it.

  54. I’m with zuzu — it’s emotionally abusive. If this guy was saying similarly critical things about her body or the way she dressed or how she interacted with other men, would we hesitate to label it abusive?

  55. Also, could someone explain to me what “a corked bottle of wine” is?

    It’s a bottle of wine that has a bad cork. Corks can dry out, or get too wet and smell funny, which can ruin the wine.

  56. have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?

    I haven’t. Does it give one a license to be a condescending asshole?

  57. I dunno. I still think mountain out of mole hill. But it’s your forum for debate not mine. I still see the kitchen as a place where someone is the ruler, the top of the heirarchy, it doesn’t run smoothly otherwise. And those of you who think I just don’t “get it” have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?

    Yep, I’ve worked in a kitchen environment before. I’ve worked in several different restaurants, and I know about the dynamic that occurs in kitchens. But these are commercial establishments that rely on one person coordinating the activities of all of the other people, and those activities must be completed within a short period of time, otherwise, everything will be all fucked up. I don’t think that’s an excuse for abusive behavior (I’m talking about you, Gordon Ramsey), but it is definitely a situation in which people need to be aggressive and precise.

    The home kitchen is not. You’re not talking about the interaction between a boss and employees, or between a head chef and his/her cooks; you’re talking about a couple of people who are supposed to be equals in a relationship who should be enjoying each other’s company and helping each other out, not denigrating each other for breaking the mayonnaise or overcooking the pork.

    Plus, I think that the culture in a lot of kitchens is misogynistic and unhealthy, but that’s another discussion to have.

  58. most of which had what looked like black bean on them.

    What’s wrong with black beans?

    This actually sounds like my parents in the kitchen. My mother almost crawls out of her skin whenever someone is in “her” kitchen. And my poor father just loves to play in the kitchen! But it isn’t abusive, more just funny.

  59. My mother fell in love with Julia Child during the early days of her show when Julia dropped a roast halfway through the show, then picked it up, rinsed it off and went on her way.

    That’s a very different vibe than your partner standing over you snapping at you because you didn’t julienne the damn carrots evenly enough.

  60. Kristjan,

    Katie, this is ment in the most postive way possible, but you have a brave husband…

    He’s way too smart and way too opinionated for his own good! But that’s one of the reasons why I love him.

  61. MuzakBox I can see where you’re coming from (though I don’t agree with you totally – I think it is emotionally abusive behavior, but in some situations perhaps partners can have a relationship like that in the kitchen and still be OK with it).

    But a bigger problem I had with the article was this statement (and sentiment):

    It was a nice fantasy while it lasted: rather than letting the lady of the house bear the constant burden of cooking dinner, the modern couple would share the work.

    The implication there can’t be equality or disparity & respect in the kitchen when men cook too is infuriating. The whole “either you submit to gendered stereotypes or you accept that ‘men will be men’ attitude” that this article stinks of is what makes my blood boil.

  62. “And those of you who think I just don’t “get it” have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?”

    I have. Strangely enough, I can still recognize the difference between my husband and multiple professionals being paid to do as I say.

    Do you honestly think that someone would balk at a friend’s request that they lend a hand and choose a pot in a private kitchen just because they were afraid of hearing “No, not that one–I need the bigger pot on the bottom shelf.”?

  63. My mom is an alpha cook. This is why I:
    (a) BARELY cook anything at all- if it doesn’t have easy-to-follow instructions and a small number of steps/ingredients, forget it
    (b) will not cook in front of anyone. This used to even go down to “I won’t microwave food in the oven if my roommate just came home.”
    (c) become a raging stressed-out bitch in the kitchen on the verge of a meltdown every time I try to cook something.
    (d) thoroughly expect that I will be screamed at for doing anything in the kitchen, such as “You can’t grate cheese right,” on the rare occasions I am in someone else’s kitchen where I am supposed to help,
    (e) am phobic about others eating my cooking.
    (f) really, really, really hate potlucks. Which I have to do weekly, like it or not.

    I will never enjoy cooking, I do whatever I can to avoid cooking, food tastes better when it’s made by anyone else than me. Naturally, all of my exes, while not being alpha cooks, have whined that it’d be great if I’d cook more often. Forget it.

    I actually like that this article exists (even if it’s gendered), because nobody ever gets why I am not a natural-born cook and hate doing it. There’s nothing like dealing with Mr. or Ms. Totally Anal in the kitchen to kill any budding desire someone might have had to work with food. I can’t even operate a microwave around my mother without ticking her off.

  64. Okay, Jennifer’s comment just gave me a nasty flash-forward to what’s going to happen when this guy decides to try and teach their kid to cook the “right” way.

    Helping my dad out with various home improvement projects was pretty bad, but at least he didn’t traumatize me to the point where I can’t pick up a hammer.

  65. dunno. I still think mountain out of mole hill. But it’s your forum for debate not mine. I still see the kitchen as a place where someone is the ruler, the top of the heirarchy, it doesn’t run smoothly otherwise. And those of you who think I just don’t “get it” have you ever worked in a kitchen environment before?

    Okay, this has just made me remember a conversation I had years ago with my (female) chef friend, who happened to be in an abusive marriage to another (even more alpha than her) chef. She told me that part of the extremely heirarchical nature of the professional kitchen is actually related to the heirarchy of classical european dance – both were ordered by Napoleon at around the same time. Anyone ever heard this? This chef friend at the time defended the heirarchy as the only way to maintain a high level of art/work/food. I notice she’s not in that relationship anymore though, and runs her own place.

  66. …I want to add that my partner and I work in a high pressure heirarchical environment and I am constantly making the argument that home is different. Being low status is just way too much work to also do it at home, for no pay.


  67. My mother fell in love with Julia Child during the early days of her show when Julia dropped a roast halfway through the show, then picked it up, rinsed it off and went on her way.

    That’s a very different vibe than your partner standing over you snapping at you because you didn’t julienne the damn carrots evenly enough

    yup. “emotional abuse” is right.

    meanwhile: wasn’t there another Julia Child show wherein she flipped a crepe/pancake a little too enthusiastically, and it never came back down, and the camera panned slowly upward to find it stuck to the ceiling?

  68. Ah, Julia.

    I recall the omelette episode, where the “wrist flip” failed, and she calmly scooped the result off the stove with the comment that “luckily, we keep the kitchen scrupulously clean” and proceeded to finish the meal without batting an eye.

  69. Man. This cuts home to the last relationship I was in, before I met my current love monster.

    He had worked in kitchens for years, commercially. I’d been cooking for myself since I was 10 (a latch-key kid without the after school program). He mostly insisted that I cook, however whenever I cooked, he’d spend the whole time denigrating how I cut my vegetables.
    WTF? I cut my vegetables my way. They may not be perfectly shaped, evenly diced, or fantastically juilenned, but I cook the way I cook and always have. I would get so sick of him that I would yell at him, “well, if you think I’m doing this wrong, how abou you cook most of the time?” which would promptly shut him up.

    That shit is sick. Nobody should pull rank on anyone like that, in any arena. In bed, in the kitchen, with laundry or hobbies or gardening. What’s so wrong with letting people do things their own way? And if you have a particular food-based thing, like I do with fish, you let them know. I have only particular ways that I can eat fish, the rest make me want to gag. So I tell him that hey, I like my fish pan-fried, pan-seared, deep-fried or baked only. In my current relationship, we compromise- he doesn’t make fish the way I can’t eat it, and I don’t make things that contain foods that make him gag (sour cream, cream cheese, etc.).

    And, I have to say, we’ve only been co-habitating for the past month, but it is working out great. If I feel like making something particular, we get the ingredients and I cook it. If he wants to make something particular, it’s the same. If he needs help in making something- like me stirring or watching a pot- then I help, and I take instruction from him because he’s the one in charge of the meal that night. And vice versa.
    And I love sharing foods that we both make but differently! His chili is much spicier than mine, and mine has more beans in it. We can share our recipes, modify them for our mood, and hell even not cook if neith of us feels like it.
    So much equality in such a little space. It’s kind of heady. And much better than constantly being berated, for both parties.

  70. Oh my fucking God. My abusive ex would talk to me like this about… everything. Neither of us cook, though, so no kitchen examples in that arena. HOWEVER, I do have an example with him of how to help someone cook without being a douche! He was physically unable to fry eggs over-easy. After a few Sunday mornings of hearing him curse out the stove because he’d broken four eggs already and the fifth one is still misshapen, we had a conversation along these lines:

    me: ‘LMAO LADY, you’re having such bad luck with this!’
    him: ‘I KNOW I’M SO FUCKING FRUSTRATED WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WRONG’
    me: ‘okay, do you have enough oil in the pan?’
    him: ‘yeah.’
    me: ‘what level heat do you have it on?’
    him: ‘high’
    me: ‘okay, you need to put it on medium, that’s why it’s sticking to the bottom of the pan and breaking.’
    him: ‘…oh.’
    it is perfectly possible to correct someone about shit like this without being an asshole. i mean, yeah, i teased him, but in a blatant ‘i am jokingly teasing you in a loving way’ style.

    although i must admit to getting frustrated with my friend when she first started really using the internet a few years back. I’d grab the mouse out of her hand and do it for her a lot. but i’ve gotten over it since (i was fourteen at the time), and figured out how to actually help someone instead of make them feel like shit. otherwise known as, i grew up.

  71. muzakbox, some couples enjoy some competition in their relationships. my friend is totally like this, while i’m the sort of person who desperately wants to keep the peace. i’m not about to criticize a couple who are having healthy, fun competition in their relationship. however, the way this woman seems to be reacting to how her husband is talking to her — as far as we can tell from the article — seems a lot more fucked up than ‘healthy competition.’

  72. And the problem doesn’t seem to me to be the patriarchy… …I still think mountain out of mole hill.

    You look at one or two examples of a het relationship where the male tells the female how to cook, and you might not conclude that the problem is the Patriarchy. Try putting this in the context of women’s work vs men’s work and how that division works out in the Patriarchy. Cooking is women’s work. Top chefs are predominately male. When men enter into traditionally female domanins, they take the top positions, the positions with power. This dynamic is playing out on a microscale in the relationships covered by the article. The men in question entered the domestic sphere not as equal helpmates, but as controllers. That attitude, the entitlement they feel to be the controlling force, the very idea that there should be a controlling force in the domestic arena, is engendered by Patriarchy.
    There is another dynamic at play in the judgement on women by how well they run their households. Women are judged by how clean their house is even if there is a man living in it. Women are judged by how well they entertain, too. The entitlement to critique a woman’s homemaking skills (which entitlement is not limited to men, btw, women engage in this too) is engendered by Patriarchy.
    The Partriarchy is a mountain propped up by molehills. All the little things which might seem too insignificant to complain about individually add to a pattern of systematic division of skills into masculine and feminine with those skills labelled as feminine devalued until men routinely perform them, at which point those skills become something women cannot be good at.

  73. This was contenious. Which I thoroughly enjoyed. And I discussed it with my husband last night and we laughed a bit because he reminded me that now that he has surpassed me in all things yeast risen that sometimes he talks to me in the condescending ‘you are useless move’ way. I love it. He has so much confidence when it comes to dough. The arrogance about it is freaking sexy. Okay, I admit I think all things food are sexy and while I tended to be very agressive in the foodie area its nice when sometimes he dominates the space a bit.

    Maybe my lens for looking at this is different. Because let me tell you the patriarchy does not rule my home. My husband is the stay at home who home schools and does 90% of the domestic chores. I’ve run my kitchen like a working kitchen since I was 15 and don’t think that just because we are at home that there can’t be the same air of professionalism. Plus I work all day and still do most of the cooking because, well, I’m better at it and more efficient. As my husband likes to call me the Queen of Sauces. If I get home from work at 5:15 and want to get dinner off by 6:30 I’d better damn well be. So I run a ridiculously clean tight kitchen and we all like and appreciate it because we can get the fun part where we all sit around the table, eat good food, and talk about current events and what we’re all reading and just be a family. I still think these couples are new. Everybody has at least one area in their life that they feel superior to their partner. Everyone. And sometimes it creates friction. Some people enjoy the friction, or ignore the friction, or get off on the friction. Some people try to soften themselves for their partners and so people know that they can only be themselves which is sometimes abrasive and bitchy (me and my husband). Personally, I like it when he tells me that he thinks my bread is on it’s way to becoming a doorstop because when he tells me its delightfully textured I believe him. It’s a real compliment.

    This turned into rambling. I guess I’m personally amused that this fluff piece that I sent to my husband as a laugh is such a hot topic here. But, as a said before, perhaps its just a different lens. I personally liked the high pressure stress of working in a kitchen environment. I loved the crushing lows and the exhilirating highs of it. I love it when a meal just flows out of me and I even enjoy it when I totally break a sauce and I have to think fast to salvage it.

  74. Jennifer, my mother was not just an “alpha” cook, but “alpha-squared” about housework. Not only can I (will I) not cook, but I have an existential hysterical meltdown whenever my husband tries to “renegotiate” our current arrangement – which is that I don’t do any housework except for the (very few) things I can do, because I wasn’t punished by having to do them over and over, and screamed at for being a total loser who couldn’t clean mirrors/bathrooms/dust/vacuum/scrub the floor correctly.

    I have lots of memories like the following: being dragged out of bed on a school night, and made to re-scrub the already-spotless kitchen floor until my mother or (rarely) my father was satisfied, but they went back to bed before I finished, and I was afraid to, so I didn’t get any sleep at all. But I still had to go to school the next day. (And being tormented by bullies and teachers was actually preferable to being at home, where there was no escape.) At age 18, I dropped out of college, and while my parents were “deciding what to do with me” (i.e., could they ship me off to live with relatives, or maybe they could try getting me locked up in a mental hospital), they came up with this scenario – Mom came up with 8 full hours of housework for me to do while she was at work, and there was hell to pay when she got home if it wasn’t all done to her satisfaction (which of course, it wasn’t).

    Let’s just say I have a *unique* relationship with housework. I do realize that people who visit will judge me unfavorably if my husband’s standards of cleanliness don’t impress them, but that’s not an issue that concerns me. Avoiding another PTSD meltdown is.

    BTW, I have no qualms calling the above behaviors “abusive”. I have chronic PTSD as a result of my childhood, and I no longer have contact with my parents. Amazingly, I’m much happier.

  75. Me and Mom do most of the cooking in our household. That’s mostly because we dread the crock-pot concoctions Dad invents and my brother Charlie can’t boil water to save his life. 😀

  76. I have a problem like this with my roommates–only I’m the controlling one. I find it very difficult in a kind of visceral to stand around watching them: dirty endless numbers of pans because they can’t plan a meal in their head, add spices which clash in an attempt to make a meal taste better (it will taste worse), buy single-use kitchen products (as opposed to multiple use kitchen products) which clutter up the place and don’t get used, seek out recipes from unreliable websites rather than look at cookbooks where every recipe works (then wonder why their meals from recipes consistently fail!), denigrate themselves when something DOES work, chop in the most time-consuming way possible, etc.

    But, well, I know these are stupid things to be irritated about, and I know how much _I_ hate it when people won’t let me make my own mistakes. So I just leave the room while they’re cooking unless they ask for help or are clearly (and loudly) getting upset at one of their meals starting to fail. I guess I empathize with the underlying feelings of frsutration by alpha cooks in the article. I just think–like so much in the patriarchy–it’s the responsibility of those with the screwed up reactions (alpha cooks in the kitchen) to control themselves and try to transform their issues into constructive criticism so that people who may well appreciate POLITE help will seek you out with questions.

  77. Because let me tell you the patriarchy does not rule my home.

    Which doesn’t mean that it doesn’t rule in anyone’s home, or that it doesn’t exist.

  78. Let’s just say I have a *unique* relationship with housework. I do realize that people who visit will judge me unfavorably if my husband’s standards of cleanliness don’t impress them, but that’s not an issue that concerns me. Avoiding another PTSD meltdown is.

    If it’s really getting to him, you need something like Merry Maids. They’ll clean your house to a white-glove standard and you can leave the house while they do it.

    My husband and I get them because I am the World’s Worst Housekeeper, and we are both much happier now that all of the burden isn’t falling on him. It’s worth every goddamned penny.

  79. I had an abusive boyfriend who did that. I mean, he said I was fucking up the Hamburger Helper. Who fucks up Hamburger Helper? That was one of those wake up moments.

  80. You know the scene in Chicago when the woman says her husband fell on the knife nine times? After reading this I could kind of see how that could happen.

  81. My own past experience, and some of the posts here show that being a kitchen bully is hardly an exclusively male phenomenon.

    I think it has more to do with personality than gender.

  82. Chef hovers when I’m in there because he loves cooking and really wants to be a part of it — so be it. But while he’s making some crazy complicated thing I’m on the couch drinking a glass of wine and trying to cross-stitch because I don’t care so much about the process so much as I like the food. He’s a foodie, obviously, and I’m not. I just like to eat.

    So I chuckled when I read this article because one of my first fights with Chef was over the kitchen. I had taken the last of the tomatoes I grew that summer out of the freezer and was making some marinara sauce with all my veggies that I PERSONALLY GREW in MY GARDEN. He’s hovering over the pot smelling things and I see he’s poured some wine in it, which was all fine and good since I would have done it anyway. But then I see him over there AGAIN and I flip out. I ask him what he was doing and I see he has a bottle of hot sauce — Sriracha, for those in the know — and all of a sudden my marinara that I had spent all day making tasted like fucking hot chilies.

    I was absolutely livid with him, for good reason. He’d not only tried to improve upon a recipe that I had no want or need for improving, was trying to pull rank on the sly, ruined the last of the tomatoes I’d grown in my garden, and made the tomato sauce too hot for Ethan (7) to eat. When he saw how mad I was that he was altering my sauce behind my back he tried to fix it, but there’s no fixing sriracha — it’s good stuff, but not in pasta sauce.

    I made it pretty clear that he can cook anything he wants to and I won’t bother him, but my food is not only my food, but my family’s culture and I didn’t want him trying to “fix” what didn’t need to be fixing. Now, if I want help uding some crazy piece of equipment or learning how to chop something more effectively, I ask. Otherwise he can butt the fuck out.

    Truly, that fight was of epic proportions, and yet, being a foodie, he knows why it’s so important to me. Food really is culture, and you don’t abuse somebody’s culture without repurcussions.

  83. I couldn’t read past the ‘power dynamic’ crap on the first page.

    First of all, these people are insufferably pretentious (and I include the writer).

    Secondly, everyone knows that ‘help’ when cooking can be irritating – depending on what you are making and who is helping. ‘Come cook with me’ isn’t the same as ‘Come fly with me’, let’s put it that way. I never allow guests to help me, for example, partly because my kitchen is small, partly because I’ve lived alone for a long time and I’m just not used to it. They can drink wine and chat with me or something while I do it.

    Thirdly, it really doesn’t matter a hill of beans whether your onions are sweated or sauteed, your eggs shirred or scrambled and I’ll bet you that none of these pencil-d**ks could tell the difference.

    These people have some serious problems, not the least of which is the fact that they have WAY too little to think about.

    These ladies should wake up and lose the head cases lickety-split. There’s a whole lot of stuff to do before you die and ditching these bottle-baby martinets would be a step in the right direction.

    Sheesh.

  84. People, don’t you get it? The reporter is making fun of these people for your pleasure. She comes to their house, cozies up to them, gets all confidential, flatters them – and then interviews each one separately, egging them on. Then she writes this article and ruins their lives. You want to be pissed at someone, be pissed at the NYT and the turds like Katherine Wheelock who write for it.

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