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Some thoughts on class and food

So, folks in the comment thread on yesterday’s post want to talk about class and the food system, and the ways in which conversations about sustainability are so very classed (and, often, classist).

To which I say: Word!

And then it’s kinda hard to know what else to say.

Ok, not really. But kinda.

Here’s my deal: I’m committed to an accessible approach to sustainable food, from pricing my book at $10 to focusing on afforable ingredients like rice and beans, greens, potatoes, etc. and teaching tips and techniques to make do with what you have around rather than relying on spendy specialized ingredients; from talking about food deserts in the same context as my favorite farmers market to including organizing resources in the back of my cookbook.

But when it comes time to talk about solutions to the many class-based problems with the U.S. food system—and there are so many: the concentration of farmers markets and grocery stores in middle-class neighborhoods while low-income neighborhoods go without both, the high costs of fruits and vegetables compared with soda and chips, to name two of the most obvious—I hit a bit of a wall. ‘Cause though I cook what I consider affordable food all the time, the bottom line is that I live in one of those middle-class neighborhoods, and I’ve never wondered where the cash for my next grocery run was coming from (and I’m not naive enough to think that what I consider affordable is what everyone else does too). So I don’t have the best understanding of the challenges involved in eating well without class privilege. That all makes it a lot easier for me to talk a good game about how farm subsidies enable the corn production that produces the 99-cent value meal with a nutritional value approaching nil, but when it comes to what to do about it, the only thing I can think to say is that a hearty bean stew is really cheap and easy to make. Which is is, as long as you have a place to buy beans, kale, tomatoes, and spices.

There is one obvious, if vague, answer: organize!

This is all a long-winded way of saying that I think there’s a lot more wisdom in the commenting community here than I’ve got, though I can kick things off with some food justice and food security organizations to check out: Food First, Growing Power, The Healthy Corner Stores Network, The People’s Grocery, Detroit’s Garden Resource Program, and The Community Food Security Coalition.

But that doesn’t really go far enough, either. Unless we think holistically, we’re not gonna get the kind of food system, or the kind of world, we want.

Something that’s often in danger of getting lost in the discussion of making fresh food more affordable and accessible is the fact that farming is hard, and good labor practices can get expensive. Cheaper vegetables at the expense of farmworkers is neither sustainable nor just. So: United Farm Workers (as a California resident, I find their action alerts especially useful since many are aimed at my governor), Coalition of Immokalee Workers, Justice for Farmworkers (New York State), and  Unete Center for Farmworker Advocacy (Southern Oregon). And: Physicians for a National Health Program, Healthcare Now, Single Payer Action; the National Alliance of Public Transit Advocates‘ membership directory (find a group near you); the Los Angeles Bus Riders Union; Boston’s T Riders Union; Urban Habitat’s transportation justice program.


28 thoughts on Some thoughts on class and food

  1. I really enjoyed reading this. I often wonder whether or not it is worth the price difference to eat organic whole foods, but I do it anyway. I feel much better and there are inexpensive options available. Rice, beans, herbs and spices, and discounted produce are reasonably priced. It’s so easy to lean toward the higher priced specialty foods, though. Even when choosing foods for their therapeutic value, it is possible to economize.

  2. Of course, most of the time when community plots/gardens are created, they are later destroyed in the name of development. It happens over and over again in LA.

  3. “There is one obvious, if vague, answer: organize!”

    That’s not vague. All you have to do is organize is walk out your front door. Go talk to your neighbor. Then go talk to the next one.* It flows from there.

    Ok it is tougher than that, but it can be done. Sometimes you have to stop blogging and go out into the world and do stuff. (“You” being the generic “you,” not anyone in particular.)

    *This is a paraphrase of a quote from an old school organizer guy whose name is escaping me, argh. I will post it when it comes to me.

  4. While I think workers’ rights and farming conditions are important discussions, that only becomes relevant when you discuss universally lowering food costs. As is, there is a huge discrepancy between food costs in low income neighborhoods and middle to upper class neighborhoods that needs to be addressed. It costs me approximately $1.50 for a 16 ounce bag of organic broccoli at any local Whole Foods stores (30-40 minutes away by public transportation), $2.00 for a 10 ounce organic bag at the co-op nearly 2 miles from my apartment and $2.25 for a 16 ounce bag of conventional broccoli with freezer burn at the closest grocery store. And trying to cobble together your affordable soup at my closest low income store would probably be a joke given the quality of the produce available. Tomatoes? Generally rotten, sub canned at a higher price. Kale? Not at that store. Could sub frozen greens of some sort at double the price of fresh just about anywhere with a substantially lower quality (see also, freezer burned broccoli). Beans? No such thing as bulk and, once again, dried conventional beans are actually priced higher there than organic ones at the co-op and Whole Foods. Oh, but if I walk 1.5 miles in the other direction (and public transportation or no, if you’re unemployed or poor you do a lot of walking because transportation costs add up) I can access even more fresh produce. Granted, a lot is still rotten at the big veggie “stand,” but they have a much wider selection and, invaluable to anyone on a tight budget, they have those discounted bags of veggies about to go rotten that can make a difference in whether or not one can even have vegetables that week.

    ***

    On a somewhat related note, it looks like The Hunger Challenge again is running again this year starting September 20 (http://hungerchallenge.blogspot.com/) — $4/day for a week. I was sort of on the fence about this because I’ve known people who were probably living on less and if you get to walk away from it after a week, it feels a bit like playing at someone else’s troubles. And there’s something to be said for knowing that there’s a time limit and thus no need for desperation. But I do think that people who attempt the challenge walk away with more of a sense of what it’s like to try to balance a diet when you have so little to draw from.

  5. This is a fantastic post.

    Something I’d love to do, and something I think is valuable in terms of food justice activism, is teaching kids and teens in low-income, high-needs communities to garden. This, of course, requires a space for a garden and time on behalf of the teacher to volunteer (I don’t think there are very many paid positions for this).

    As with most things, doing it yourself is the best way to meet your needs in the present and ensure your autonomous well-being in the future.

    Now… that said, there’s no guarantee that the people one would teach now would, or even could, maintain gardens of their own in the future. Part of the plight of low-income individuals is the life-long sentence of hard work that often leaves little time for other pursuits. But even if it doesn’t yield results in that way, teaching kids to garden teaches them about the value of getting out the equivalent of what one puts in (which they’re not often exposed to) and minimizes the feeling of alienation they experience. It teaches life skills. And feeds them. Win win!

  6. There are a lot of people organizing for food access and food justice. The current president of Slow Food, Josh Viertel, is completely committed to the justice issues, and he’s moving the organization in that direction.

    I know there is a stereotype of the food movement (and particularly slow food) as being california yuppies sipping wine and eating their heirloom veggies / heritage meets… but as an organizer in the food movement myself, I can tell you that for many of us, food is the means and not the end. That is, the food movement may look like it’s about food itself, but for many of us, it’s really about healthy communities.

  7. To expand on my point, I was trying to show how people DO organize against this sort of thing, only to be forced out usually in the name of capitalism and development. Your post has kind of a whiff of — well they don’t know what they could do, but hey if you *organized*…”

    What makes you think they haven’t? Aren’t? If you’re going to examine class issues in this context, it’s important to see where you made assumptions, as well.

    For example: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Central_Farm

    Take an overall look at community gardening projects.

  8. This is a big issue for me. I do want to support stutainable food, but I’m not sure how to do that without, as you say, a wiff of classism. I have not a lot of good ideas, other than, as peanut butter says ask “what makes you think people haven’t organized”? having that make a difference still has that bit of classism there.

  9. I live in a city right in the middle of farm country, and although I do garden (a bit, I cultivate weeds, mostly) anything else I want is available by contacting the local farms. Thanks to living with Chef, we’ve become part of the locavore movement locally — even his restaurant is getting in on it.

    I do get irritated about the local farmers’ markets and co-ops because if they aren’t 1) really expensive, 2) they aren’t open during the times when blue collar workers are available to attend them. Moreover, at least in our local markets and co-ops, they have expanded the terms “local” and “farmer” to mean anyone in the state that grows something, even if the vendors are carrying mass-farmed produce at grocery store prices.

  10. Here’s a weird thing I’ve noticed upon moving from one part of Nashville to another. I used to shop at the Kroger in a nice part of town. Any produce I bought would last four or five days. I now shop at the Kroger in a poorer, predominately African American part of town and any produce I buy lasts two or three days.

    I don’t quite know what to make of that. I mean, it’s true that the people who shop at this Kroger have access to fresh fruits and vegetables, but what if you can only get to the grocery store on the weekend? You can’t really buy fruits and vegetables for the whole week.

    I sometimes wonder if we’re not getting produce that has sat in another Kroger for a few days first. But then I think that sounds a little too “conspiracy theory”ist, so I don’t know what to make of it or what to do about it.

  11. @peanutbutter, I don’t think people haven’t organized (hence the links to a bunch of ways people are already organizing)! Just that organizing is the key to making any change in the systemic, institutional problems we are up against in making sustainable, healthy food truly and widely accessible. @Jillian’s point is well taken—the poor tax (the way that poor folks are charged more for basic items) is a huge problem and if approached only at an individual level it will remain intractable. I wasn’t saying “they” don’t know what to do, I was saying that *I* personally don’t know what to do other than point to organizing work that is already happening. And I completely agree re development—that’s another important site for organizing. Food justice is by nature a coalitional movement.

    Re @ExpectsMiracles’ wondering about whether organic is worth it, I try to buy organic as much as possible when I can afford it, not for my own health as much as for harm reduction relating to pesticides, b/c of the labor safety issues and also environmental contamination. But I will choose local over organic if it’s one or the other, and I also don’t really care about organic certification. The cert program can present a lot of barriers to small farmers, many of whom are producing w/o pesticides and in totally sustainable ways.

  12. Wow, what makes you think people haven’t organized? Even your response to the class question is reeking of classism. I hope you actaully do blog about this issue in an in depth manner, but right now it’s seeming like you don’t get it.

  13. One thing middle class people can do is not beat themselves up and feel like assholes because they can afford organic food, or worse, refuse to buy it in some cheap grab for “authenticity”. The more demand for organic food, the more incentive for farmers to provide it, the more of it goes into the market, and the price goes down. We’ve already seen it happening.

    I’d say that Lisa’s book helped me find a lot of ways to cut food costs, honestly. Using cheap, bulk grains was something I was already clued into, but I didn’t have a really good idea of how to do that and still address variety. Part of the problem was I wasn’t cooking my vegetables properly. You get a lot more variety if you can cook your veggies in a way that draws out their unique flavor, and Lisa has tips for that. No one ever told me the value of salting your food in the pan, or browning it a little.

    What also helps cut costs—believe it or not—is going to the farmer’s market. A lot of farmers at these markets have learned that having unique produce makes them competitive. Don’t be afraid to buy a squash you’ve never heard of! What’s helpful is Melissa’s Big Book of Produce to identify unusual produce and learn if there’s anything special you need to do to prepare it. By buying a variety of veggies, I avoid boredom, which in turn prevents me from being tempted to buy expensive items instead of the same bulk grains.

  14. I’m with Lauren on gardening. We actually started a community garden in our urban neighborhood this year, and it was a *ton* of work (or at least it was for my partner and the handful of folks who did the heavy lifting). Planting, weeding, and watering are also big time commitments that, as Lauren points out, may take more time then many working class people may have.

    However, the fact that gardens aren’t a quick fix doesn’t mean that we should throw up our hands in dispair. First, gardening is worth it for the educational, cultural, and nutritional benefits it provides. Second, the more popular urban agriculture becomes, the more resources there are (both in terms of informal resources and grants to help with land/water/tools etc.,). Also, community gardens don’t have to follow the private-property paradigm that so many of us are used to (e.g. each gardener rents their own plot, and is responsible for their own harvests)– there are a bazillion possible organizing frameworks that may make use of individuals’ unique skills and schedules.

  15. If we’re going to talk about the cost of foods, don’t forget about:
    1) Start-up costs. If you’re going to cook, you need tools like a stove, dishes, pots and pans, silverware, knives, counter space, a freezer and refrigerator. . . Some of us are lucky enough to have inherited some of these things from our families and friends, or to have enough income to buy them on our own. But they do cost a significant amount, and I’m not sure where they fit in on that $4/day Hunger Challenge budget. . .

    2) Not to mention pantry staples, like cooking oil, sugar and flour, and especially spices. It’s easy to forget about them in your daily or weekly budget, since you don’t buy new pepper or curry powder every week. But again, it still costs money, and if you’re trying to make the transition from eating out/eating prepared foods to cooking everything, you will have to make that initial investment.

    3) TIME. I know there are all kinds of tips and tricks and good recipes for “quick homemade meals,” but even a relatively low-labor recipe like a slow-cooking stew still takes more time and effort than microwaving a can of soup or picking up some McDonald’s. So the time thing, too. And of course the labor burden still tends to fall more often on women, so this gets to be a gendered issue as well as a class issue…

    (I know these are common topics of conversation, too, so you all probably know this already. But we shouldn’t forget it!)

  16. @Aunt B-

    I had the exact same observation at my local Cub Foods (same idea as Kroger, Safeway, SuperValu, etc.). The one I went to a couple months ago, a mostly middle class area, had all kinds of produce (always good quality, lasted a while), and the produce section was huge. In fact, my boyfriend and I went there one night and randomly chose 5 different kinds of peppers that we’d never heard of, just for fun.

    At the Cub in the neighborhood I live in now, which is predominantly black and poor, I can’t find yellow squash, the entire produce section is pathetically small, and the produce does last about half the time as the produce at the other Cub. You’d be lucky to even find 5 different kinds of peppers, let alone 5 that you’d never heard of.

    Speaking of that, one thing that stuck out to me in the OP was:

    the high costs of fruits and vegetables compared with soda and chips, to name two of the most obvious—

    I’m not sure how accurate that is. At any grocery store I’ve shopped at, I can load up on an insane amount of fresh produce and beans and rice for cheap. A bad of chips is $3 or $4 for more than a single-serving, and soda is like, at least $4 for a 12-pack, if there aren’t coupons circulating.

  17. I like the sound of what you’re trying to achieve; I love to cook, and I’d love to get a hold of your book one day.

    But like others have said, there’s a huge class element here. It’s really not as simple as you’re making out; getting those beans and kale, for me, means taking public transport halfway across the city to get to the farmers market, since the supermarket produce in my (borderline working-class) area is ratshit. I don’t often have the energy for that, since I live with a disability that makes it hard to get out of the house quite often. I don’t have a garden to develop, so that one’s out too, and there ain’t no community garden anywhere round here. These things are just not that simple.

    It’s the same sort of attitude in the hunger challenge that someone linked above – while I’m sure that makes people feel all down with the poor people and stuff, $4/day, for a WEEK? That’s not terribly uncommon for me; I’ve had to live of less often enough, and the thing is, I’m not particularly poor in the scheme of things.

    I realise I should expect a terminal lack of clue from Amanda by now, but y’know, the reason farmers markets and such aren’t always an option is not just because poor folks are too lazy/uneducated to go there, comprehende? No one’s suggesting that you should purposefully buy un-organic food for the hipster points, but that rather, if you’re advocating buying it as a solution, it might help to include actual poor folks in your analysis?

    I think it’d be really interesting to have a discussion about balancing making purchases that are ecologically sound and don’t involve screwing over farmworkers, while at the same time being actually manageable for the poor; discussing the organising that’s happening in that area (some of which has been loosely referred to here) and how best to push that forward.

    But I’m not sure this discussion is particularly helpful in that regard.

  18. The hardest part of cooking is buying ingredients. And I am lucky to live within 1.2km of two cheaper grocery stores. But I am limited to buying what I can carry in my backpack and on my handlebars. And I try to stay under $30 per person per week. Which is about $4/day. Spending $4 a day for one week isn’t hard. Spending $4 per day every week would be a challenge, especially when you run out of peanut butter or cooking oil or such things that are the best deal when you buy about $7 worth. Or if you’re starting with nothing and have $4 a day.

  19. Err, I don’t know what farmer’s market you go to Amanda, but I’ve never been to one where I could afford more than a cabbage. And the last farmers mkt cabbage I bought cost 3.00/lb.

    Having access to a car, sufficient storage space and containers, and a bulk store (Sam’s, etc) helps save money. So does having the capital to drop a hundred or two at a time on bulk trips.

    You run into this problem with a lot of other areas in poverty. Yeah, cooking saves a ton money over eating out–but to save that money you need a certain amount of capital in the first place.

  20. Also, there’s nothing wrong with frozen vegetables and dried or canned beans. The whole “it must be freeeeeesh!” thing re: produce is overrated. I’ve lived near/used pretty shit supermarkets in some damn poor neighborhoods in my life, and they all had at least frozen vegetables, canned fruit, and dried bean/pasta/rice.

  21. Lisa, thanks for bringing the discussion around to class. You say:

    That all makes it a lot easier for me to talk a good game about how farm subsidies enable the corn production that produces the 99-cent value meal with a nutritional value approaching nil, but when it comes to what to do about it, the only thing I can think to say is that a hearty bean stew is really cheap and easy to make.

    One thing that always irks me when farm subsidies are paired with poor diet is how often food advocates denouncing the subsidies in the U.S. Farm Bill fail to mention that this is the very same bill that allocates funding and sets guidelines for the USDA Food and Nutrition Service (FNS). That is, FNS programs like the National School Lunch Program (NSLP) and School Breakfast Program (SBP), Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP, formerly “Food Stamps”), Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants and Children (WIC) and Farmers’ Market Nutrition Programs (FMNP) and the like are all funded under (or, rather, underfunded by) the Farm Bill.

    As you point out, it doesn’t do much to change the system if you just say “a hearty bean stew is really cheap and easy to make” when people lack access to affordable foods. However, if we’re talking about the Farm Bill anyway, we should also be talking about expanding, strengthening and increasing the accessibility of these important anti-hunger programs, which provide cash assistance to poor and hungry people as a significant step in addressing class inequity.

    Even if food writers weren’t already talking about the Farm Bill they should be talking about improving these programs. I’m just shocked that so many of these high-profile writes on food politics don’t even touch the issue of anti-hunger programs, especially when they otherwise have so much to say about the evils of so-called “welfare” in the form of farm subsidies.

  22. Err, I don’t know what farmer’s market you go to Amanda, but I’ve never been to one where I could afford more than a cabbage. And the last farmers mkt cabbage I bought cost 3.00/lb.

    Having access to a car, sufficient storage space and containers, and a bulk store (Sam’s, etc) helps save money. So does having the capital to drop a hundred or two at a time on bulk trips.

    I am curious about what farmer’s market everyone else is going to. This must clearly vary by city. I live in Minneapolis, MN, and there are 2 major farmer’s markets (that I know of) that are directly located right on the major bus lines in the heart of the poorest neighborhoods in the city. There are, of course, several others, in wealthier areas.

    I spent $16 at the market yesterday and could hardly fit everything in my refrigerator. I had 8 shopping bags of fresh produce. It’s insanely inexpensive. I do not drive with any kind of regularity and don’t even own a car (my boyfriend has one that I’ll use maybe once a week to go see my mom or something). I do not drive to the farmer’s market, I bus or walk. In fact, driving there would be incredibly inconvenient.

    On the other hand, because this is Minnesota, the markets are only open from May-November, which is too bad.

    I don’t know what Minneapolis does differently to allow prices to be so low. I wonder why costs of farmer’s market goods are so high elsewhere.

  23. I used to live in Minneapolis, and the one downtown is cheap because it has nothing to do with farmers. The majority of the produce there is a dumping ground for big warehouses (that’s why you can get cheap pineapple, bananas, etc). It actually undercuts the real farmers in the area, and should be banned IMO. Others, though, like the one in Midtown on Lake (a low-income neighborhood), are 100% local farmers.

    Blaming farmers markets for being overpriced is a little crazy IMO. Do people realize farmers are often living in poverty, as well? That they normally have to work two full-time jobs to make ends meet (farming plus another job)? And a spell of bad weather and/or disease (like light blight on tomatoes in the northeast) can make that their farming net zero, or negative income?

    It’s because food is actually very underpriced, even when they are selling direct (to say nothing of when they are not)? The only answer I can think of goes to subsidies (redirecting them). And middle and upper-class people who can afford organic, local veggies should do so, instead of spending on entertainment and vacations–that’s certainly what I did when I got “rich” (from under 10K to over 20K). All my income goes to food and rent (it used to go to rent, and food). Of course, if you can’t, you can’t–no reason for guilt.

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